Lessons from Margate

September 7, 2015 by Ray Morgan

Lessons from Margate

I have a thing about seaside towns. You might have noticed. I wrote a poetry book on living by the sea and heck, I'm even attempting to write a novel about it. It's fitting, of course, that I live by the coast, but I always like to visit other seaside towns. 

Something about the run-down nature of coastal towns out of seasons, with chip wrappers and stopped rides and the determination to eat ice cream when you're chilly just ensnares me.

I took a trip to Margate at the weekend. I'd never been before, but people had told me great things since its rejuvenation following the opening of the Turner Contemporary gallery.

The sun shone in that bright, crisp still-need-sunglasses way that it does in September, even though walking in the shade required a jacket.

It felt quiet - not like midwinter, depressing. It just...wasn't rammed. I thought about Old Leigh and how squashed it gets on a good day. Here, in Margate, it was much more chilled. SIDE NOTE: I'm not hating on my home town here guys! But it did make me think we could learn a thing or two from good old Margs.

The place is chock-full of vintage shops. I mean, every other shop in their cutesy old town sells great vintage clothes, books, records, furniture, all sorts. And the prices are reasonable! My partner bought a tshirt for £5 which the girl in the shop excitedly told us she bought in New York on a vintage clothing run.

There is also the majestic Turner Contemporary. We caught the Grayson Perry 'Provincial Punk' vase exhibition which was brilliant and funny. I've never walked round a gallery before where everyone is laughing and smirking. Anything close to austere was left at the door. The views from the gallery are beautiful; uninterrupted sea. It was free to go in, and there was an installation downstairs of hanging cymbals which gallery-goers were invited to bash, causing a groovy din.

Margate has the run-down, arcade and rollercoaster atmosphere, but it's undercut with a very artistic coolness. I looked around at all the many, many independent cafes, bars and restaurants (big up the Great British Pizza Co - you are wonderful and I'm still thinking about that butternut and gruyere pizza I inhaled). I wished we could have more of the artsy, independent, vintage-shop feel in Leigh and Southend.

We do have great independence and artistic spirit, of course, for which I am very grateful. From the Art Trail and Folk Festival and what Metal are doing bringing art (and Matmos!) to the area, to people like Poco Gelato, Henry Burgers and the recent Jaded Years vintage pop-up. But Margate has it in spades. SPADES. They have a whole market area dedicated to vintage! I want more of the art gallery, vintage-shop, independent food retailer vibe. Spades, please (and buckets too).

My top 5 things about Margate
1. Seeing Grayson Perry's vase 'Football Stands for Everything I Hate'
2. Pizza at the coolest pizzeria I've ever been to
3. Enjoying a Frozen Margarita on a balcony overlooking the beach
4. Browsing vintage Ladybird books at the market
5. Looking at the hundreds of wind turbines out to sea.